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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
I'm having issues with a squeeling car. The serpentine belt is too lose. I can almost lower it down an inch when I press on it. The car sequels like crazy when its idling. I have the done the things below with no success. I hope that someone here can help.
1. Changed serpentine belt. Length 1905 mm.
2. Replaced my serpentine belt tensioner (genuine Toyota, cost me $140 from ebay).
3. Replaced the alternator
4. Checked all the pulleys. There is no play and no suqeeling when I spin them.
This is driving me crazy guys. Any help is appreciated.
The car is a 2.4L 2007 Camry (USA Version)
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Agree that an inch is too much for the belt to deflect - might expect it to be 1/4' measured perpendicular from a ruler laying along the surface of the belt.
The Dayco belt for that car has an effective length of 1905mm/outside diameter of 1920mm which confirms your number. Did you stretch both belts between your thumbs to make sure they were about the same? (thinking perhaps packaging wrong....I would think part number should be printed on the belt and you could verify that way). If belt checks out, I would look to make sure you have the routing correct..have attached diagram - grooved side of the belt should be on the grooved pulleys - flat side of the belt on the flat pulleys (tensioner & water pump, I think). Last thought, did you compare the pulley diameters on the alternator and the tensioner? That's all I've got....
Buckaroo
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Agree that an inch is too much for the belt to deflect - might expect it to be 1/4' measured perpendicular from a ruler laying along the surface of the belt.
The Dayco belt for that car has an effective length of 1905mm/outside diameter of 1920mm which confirms your number. Did you stretch both belts between your thumbs to make sure they were about the same? (thinking perhaps packaging wrong....I would think part number should be printed on the belt and you could verify that way). If belt checks out, I would look to make sure you have the routing correct..there may be an underhood sticker detailing routing - grooved side of the belt should be on the grooved pulleys - flat side of the belt on the tensioner (I think). Last thought, did you compare the pulley diameters on the alternator and the tensioner? That's all I've got....
Buckaroo
I have gone through three belts now. All the belts are 1905mm.
1. From dealership
2. From autozone
3. From other hardware store.
I also got a re manufactured alternator and I compared to the one I have. It is the same. This is driving me crazy.
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Belt seems right.....routing? just edited my original post and attached correct routing. Also, did you compare old tensioner to new one?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Belt seems right.....routing? just edited my original post and attached correct routing.
Yeah, I have the same routing. I don't believe there is any other way to make it work. I used the image here for reference
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Well it would seem that the only other possible cause is the tensioner. Did you compare them visually? Are you sure the arm is moving freely when you unload it back against the tension using the 19mm socket? Bracket not moving/bolted down tightly? Sorry to ask all the dumb questions.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well it would seem that the only other possible cause is the tensioner. Did you compare them visually? Are you sure the arm moving freely when you unload it back against the tension using the 19mm socket? Bracket not moving/bolted down tightly? Sorry to ask all the dumb questions.
That's what I was thinking before I bought my replacement tensioner. But its going back properly. Any other ideas?
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In the attached serpentine belt removal instructions, it talks about fixing the tensioner with a 5mm allen wrench so that it doesn't return to the loaded position and you can easily remove/install the belt. Is it possible that a pin came pre-installed in the new tensioner that you need to remove to allow it to fully return?
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In the attached serpentine belt removal instructions, it talks about fixing the tensioner with a 5mm allen wrench so that it doesn't return to the loaded position and you can easily remove/install the belt. Is it possible that a pin came pre-installed in the new tensioner that you need to remove to allow it to fully return?
Unfortunately there was no 5mm bolt attached. I'm getting really pissed off. F******K
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Final thoughts....maybe
1. The belt tensioner either was defective or got damaged when installed. Don't know how you check that out.
2. The belt is tensioned correctly and the squeaks are coming from somewhere else. The belt deflection method is not a great method to check tightness - it depends how hard you push and the length of belt you are testing....so maybe it's ok. I did fight with squeaks on my '02 camry 4 cylinder for a year or two (believe it or not). I changed the belt a couple of times and the tensioner, too. It would go away and then come back, particularly on start-up and I lived with it. I did rotate the pulleys by hand to try and find a bad bearing and looked at pulley alignment (another source of squeaks) without success. I was thinking it was the bearing in the alternator and was considering replacing it when the water pump started making a terrible racket and leaking bad. Up to that point I had some very slight unidentified engine coolant loss but never found any puddles underneath the car. I replaced the water pump and no more squeak.....that was about a year ago.
Good Luck...if you figure it out, post back.
Buckaroo
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Final, final thoughts. Techniques to track down sources of squeaks. I used them without success and unfortunately had to wait for catastrophic failure.....
1. Put plain water in a spray bottle. With the car squeaking, spray water on the various pulleys, one at a time and see if the noise goes away. If the noise does not go away, squeak perhaps not associated with belt slippage or alignment - look at the accessories.
2. You already tried to remove belt and spin the pulleys and try to find a rough bearing w/ no success
3 One at a time, load the accessories and see if the noise increases or comes and goes . If it does, consider addressing as bearing may be going bad.
*Turn the AC on high to check compressor, then turn off.
*Load the alternator off by turning on the rear window defogger, blower on high, headlights on brights....then turn all off.
*Load the power steering pump by turning the wheel against the stop and holding only for 2-3 seconds. More can damage pump. You likely will hear a squeal (normal) but see if you can listen for the squeak.
Buckaroo
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Are you sure the belt is squeeling? Is it a chirp or blood curdling screech? A loose belt is the latter, a bad bearing on a pulley is the former. Does this happen under all loads or just at start up? How about when you turn the A/C on?
The screech should get very bad if you spray water on a slipping belt, then go away as it dries.
Bad pulleys can be quiet until loaded up with tension.
Posted by: loismottoe08319.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/loose-serpentine-belt-on-07-2-4l-camry.1648920/
